I started the electrics pretty early in the build as I had
to decide where the lights were going before I started the insulation. So I ran
wiring from approximately where I guessed the fuse box should be, to
approximately where I guessed the lights and other electrics would be, leaving
plenty of extra at either end to allow for changes. Admittedly not an ideal way
to start but, as it happens, I got it something like.
There is quite a lot involved in wiring both 12volt and
mains systems into a camper and the costs can easily spiral out of control if
you don’t keep a close eye on it. When I worked out a plan and priced all of
the required parts I discovered it is much more economical to buy a kit.
eBay is the answer of course, I found a company that makes
bespoke wiring kits based on your chosen vehicle and desired specifications.
You buy the kit, they phone you and ask loads of questions, build the kit (Very
quickly) and before the week was out I had my parts. Great service and I am very
happy with the quality of all the parts.
However, I had no idea where the components were going to
live and did not really have a plan, this is the first time I have converted a
van into a Camper van. So this was the first job, decide where the parts were
going.
As usual I did some research on Youtube, spent many evening
sat in the van thinking and re-thinking, planning and re-planning. Eventually I
settled on a plan which placed the control panel in the side of the kitchen
unit, in easy reach for daily use and close to the battery and fuse box which were
to be placed in the storage box next to the kitchen (Under the bed extensions).
I had placed wiring for 8 ceiling lights, reading lights and
USB socket for either side at the back, this allows phone and tablet charging
whilst in bed. The storage compartment above the cockpit wanted a light and
also above the sink unit.
Control Panel
The control panel was first and this brought up a weakness
in the kit, the USB socket was a cigar lighter socket with an adaptor installed
and this proved to be unreliable, while replacing this I broke the voltage
display and decided the panel did not have enough switches for all the lights
and components I had in mind, so I ordered a 30cm x 15cm piece of black Perspex,
cut it to the required size and made another panel. Then I broke that while
installing the new voltage display and made another.
I mounted the control panel in the side of the kitchen unit,
without the work surface and sink unit installed I had easy access for cutting
the hole and plenty of space to mount the components. I had installed wood between
the cupboards tops and the work surface, leaving about 8” of free space to
ensure the gas fittings under the hob had lots of space and protection against
damage.
The switches in the control panel are illuminated when
switched hence there are 3 wires per switch, a live in, live out and the
earth/neutral. I added 3 extra switches so I can have the power points switched
off which will stop the standby lights from draining the leisure battery when
the camper is not in use.
Leisure battery
The leisure battery is located in one of the boxes that run
on either side of the van (These are the extensions that make the bed full
width) it is charged via a split charge relay. The battery compartment also
houses the fuse box and power inverter.
The vehicle battery is located under the floor in the cab
space which made the battery wiring a challenge. The split charge relay is
wired to an ignition live directly behind the ignition switch. I would advise
soldering any such joints.
Lights
I have 8 LED ceiling lights which are switched in fours, split
front and rear, 2 reading lights mounted on the boxes which cover the rear door
check straps, 5 blue LED lights in the bottom of the kitchen unit front panel,
1 LED strip light above the sink unit and 1 LED strip light in the bulkhead
compartment, these lights are switched individually, although the strip light
switches are mounted near the side door so they can be switched from the door
way. All other switches are in the control panel.
Fridge/Cool box
We decided against a fridge for financial reasons and
instead use a 12v cool box which is located in the centre cupboard in the
kitchen unit and has its own 12v power socket. This socket is not switched separately
and is the only change I would make so far.
Water pump
We have only cold water and the tap has a switch which
powers the water pump, everything relating to this is in a cupboard under the
sink. The switch was simple to wire and the power to the tap can be switched
off from the control panel.
Mains electric
The mains consumer unit is mounted in a cupboard above the
sink with a double socket next to the control panel, a single socket in the
battery box for the power inverter and a single socket at the rear of the
camper to give access to the mains electric from the rear doors. All are wired directly to
the fuse box with the power hook up mounted in the side of the camper behind
the kitchen unit. The mains power is yet to be tested.
So that’s the electrics, the most difficult part of this was
perhaps my limited and much outdated understanding of automotive electrics.
There were many issues along the way as i only guessed when having the loom made, i have also added much more that I originally
intended, however it all works, all joints are soldered and insulated with heat
shrink. Everything is fused and I am 100% happy that it is all safe.
There were no special tools required which was a bonus as i usually have to spend money buying tools with each new part of the project. I already own a soldering iron, various hole cutters, glue guns and heat guns etc. I did have to buy some electrical connectors, a couple of rolls of 12v cable and various 12v sockets and switches. I'm not sure of the total cost but i have saved every receipt so may work it out in the future.
So whats next?
The next job is installing a table in the centre of the
camper and another on the back of the passenger seats.