A night time reccie of the Glyders

It was after my successful Bob Graham Round that i first decided i was going to attempt the Paddy Buckley Round i was aware that route knowledge was going to be key, although there were people i new had attempted it, i also new i would have to learn the route myself and be prepared to navigate much of the route when it came down to it on the big day.

So over the following 2 and a half years and in my usual fashion i reconnoitered the route, all 60 miles and 47 mountain summits (although some of these summits are merely tiny bumps on a mountain ridge), i spent most of my free weekends either learning the route or making attempts to get around. Its during these reccies that you have to decide which section will be your “night leg” (or legs) and i decided that Aberglaslyn to PGC and on over to Llanberis were going to be my night sections. So i reccied them many times in day light, until i felt i new them well enough to reccie them solo at night, after all, who else did i know who was prepared to do this? (i don’t know anybody daft enough anyway).

Night time reccies in the Welsh mountains on your own may not seem like the most sensible thing to do but a 24hr challenge means you are going to cover some of the route in the dark and someone will have to navigate. True to form it took me many nights to get the route sorted and on the big day my knowledge certainly helped.

Recently i was asked to help out on the route over the Glyders section, obviously i was more than happy to agree and even offered to navigate.  Imagine my horror when i learned the Glyders were to be completed at night and low cloud was forecast. Shit, thats not ideal. (The Glyders are 2 mountain tops in Snowdonia national park Wales) So i reverted back to the formula that works for me, reccie the route at night in similar conditions. With only a week to do this i took the opportunity on a Wednesday evening after work to drive 2 1/2 hours down to Snowdonia and do it. The usual routine was followed, Debbie would meet me back at Ogwen in 3 hours and if i failed to arrive in a further 2 hrs she would put the flag up. (get help)

Setting off from Ogwen the plan was, walk up the Devils stair case, pick off Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach and take the path next to Bristly Ridge, down and across to Tryfan, having done the route dozens of times in the day and a couple of times on clear nights i was happy enough to be doing this solo. I set off at 8.30 and as i walked up the Devils stair case i could see the clag starting to cover the summits, i needed to do this in poor weather so was happy to continue.

Reaching the top of the stair case it was fully dark and i had about 20 foot of visibility, i have been using Veiwranger mapping software on my smart phone recently and it had proved to be invaluable. The maps are Ordinance survey so very accurate, i also had a paper “back up” map in my bag of goodies. I ascended into the cloud and easily found the summit of Glyder Fawr, although the clag had gotten much worse and a fine mist was covering my glasses and making it difficult to see the screen of my phone.

I also became aware that i had perhaps chosen the wrong shoes as the rocks were very slippery and i was having trouble staying upright. (watching you would have thought i was drunk) Anyone who has been in the clag at night knows you get much better visibility if you keep you torch light below your eye line. So here i am heading towards Glyder Fach, torch in my right hand, phone with mapping software in my left, slipping and sliding over the rocks, looking over the top of my glasses at the rocky path and occasionally checking my phone to make sure i’m still on the path.

Having run/walked this route so many times before i recognised familiar clusters of rock and technical sections of path on the way over to Glyder Fach and although the mist on my glasses was becoming a problem, i knew i was heading the right direction, albeit much slower than i wanted.

The slippery rock was really challenging and slowing me down as i had to take extra care to stay vertical, aware that a fall with both hands full was not a good idea. About an hour slower that i hoped, i found the summit, taking stock of the weather and the extra time i had taken so far i decided to continue to the path near Bristley Ridge and follow it down past Tryfan and on to the road. Tryfan would have to wait for another time.

My partner would be waiting for me at Ogwen and i was already going to be an hour late. Our rule is to allow an extra 2 hours before raising the flag.

After wiping my glasses yet again and struggling to see my phone i found the route and carefully headed across the rock towards the final descent. Unfortunately, between my attempts to hold my torch, read my phone map and watch where i was heading, i managed to fall and smash the screen of my phone. So between the foggy glasses and damaged screen the phone was now almost useless.

Time to hunker down and get the map and compass out, not my best way of navigating but i usually manage to get by ok. I found shelter just off the path under a huge flat rock and grabbed a chewy bar whist i searched for the map, only to find i was still carrying a map of Fort William from the previous weeks run. Oh shit. Sitting under the rock, warm and dry i cleaned my glasses and managed to turn the phone so i could see about half of the map and decided to continue on, pretty sure in my mind that i was only 3 or 4 hundred yards from the top of the descent at Bristly Ridge.

Reading half of a phone screen with glasses covered in mist was really not working out for me, so after half an hour or so of wondering around in circles i was aware that things were getting serious. I know from previous experience in this area that there are many routes off Glyder Fach, most of them are too dangerous to even contemplate without climbing gear so after finding the top of a couple of paths and deciding it was just too dangerous to continue i found some shelter.

Shit, i was in a spot of bother and had to make my mind up what the safest course of action was, i had dry shelter and a change of clothes, full water proof body cover, a warm hat, gloves, food and a survival bag. I certainly had enough layers to stay warm and could hunker down until first light and probably find my way off quite easily. I had a double capacity battery in my phone and a spare so i could be in signal the whole time if things got worse. Or i could risk trying to find the path down.

There was a third option which is what i decided on, i would phone Debbie and tell her i had a situation and was calling Mountain Rescue for some advice, i was not in any real danger but all this could change if the weather turned. The Mountain Rescue people told me to stay put and they would discuss the best course of action and come back to me.

Happy that all would be well i hunkered down in my warm dry little hole and read a book on my phone, much easier with dry glasses even with only half a screen. I resolved to stay until first light and then take the safer miners path down to the main road. Being warm and relatively comfortable i had a short sleep and was woken by my phone ringing, it was mountain rescue, they informed me that the weather was not due to improve until late morning or early afternoon so they would be sending 2 people up to guide me off the mountain. This would take a couple of hours so i settled down for a little more sleep and wait to be “rescued”.

Obviously sleep was not happening, i was very embarrassed about having to call Mountain Rescue and felt that i was wasting their time. However i resolved that they knew their stuff and if they were sending people up for me they must feel that this was necessary. True to their word it took about 2 hours and i was greeted by 2 guys who were to guide me back to safety. It took us an hour and a half to get back to “Foggy base” (Mountain Rescue headquarters), the guys were kind and helpful and made sure i was ok. After a couple of warm cups of tea i was driven back to the bunkhouse, much to the relief of my partner Debbie.

I was well prepared for the conditions, i had plenty of clothing, full body waterproof clothing, food, drinks, a backup torch, spare phone battery and plenty of experience of the route. The mistakes i made were, wrong backup map, no GPS watch (which has the route on and big arrows to follow) and perhaps the wrong choice of foot wear. Although i’m not sure any foot wear would have helped much, the Brooks Cascadia 7’s were shite.

2 days later i was back in the Glyders at night, in the clag and was safely navigated through by the 3 other people with me, the correct map and a GPS unit really do make all the difference. 

Now i have to put up with crappy news paper stories about the idiot that went up a mountain in Wales with a map of Scotland and try to rebuild my confidence. I may also have to put up with having the piss taken by friends but thank fully the only damaged caused was to my phone and my pride. However, the lesson i learned was much bigger.

The Paddy Buckley Round

The Paddy Buckley Round is a long distance fell running challenge in Snowdonia, Wales. The route is a circuit of just over 60 miles long taking in 47 mountain summits. The aim is for participants to complete the route, on foot. Although no time limit is set, an arbitrary 24 hours is applied, similar to the Bob Graham Round. Runners may start at any point on the circular route (finishing at the same place) and may run the course in either a clockwise or anticlockwise direction. The route takes in the well known high mountain ranges of Snowdon, the Glyderau and the Carneddau as well as the slightly less well visited ranges of Moel Siabod, the Moelwynion, Moel Hebog and the Nantlle Ridge. The route was devised by the Paddy Buckley, Hence the Paddy Buckley Round. (C/O http://www.gofar.org.uk/)

I have had 3 previous attempts at the Paddy Buckley round with varying degrees of success so had decided this was my last attempt, i was also keen to complete in less than 24hrs but TBH, was happy to just get round in any amount of time.

Waiting to set off - a little nervous

Leg1 – Aberglaslyn to Pont Caer Gors (Argument car park) Distance: 8.8 miles, Ascent: c.5100ft, Time 4hrs (approx)

With me on this leg were Helen Skelton and Jules Coalman.

Not number 1 on my list of favored legs because the first ascent, Bryn Banog, is a bog fest at the bottom and too short at the top. To my disappointment the first ascent brought with it my first doubts and i could feel myself drifting into a dark place, a cloud coming over me and it takes all my effort to keep moving and not sit down and call it day. (as i did only 3 hours into my third attempt)

Jules, myself and Helen

3 weeks previously i had decided to reccie the first 2 legs over night, starting at 9pm just like i had planned for the actual attempt, things went well that night and boosted my confidence for the big day.

So here i was on the big day and things were going wrong already, it’s been an hour, WTF is going on? What is wrong with me? Luckily for me a late addition to the support team had been a stranger, Helen Skelton, who i had been told was a very capable runner and great fun to have around, with the added bonus of having a good knowledge of the route. I also had Jules Coalman along, whom i have a great respect for as a real quality runner.

Helen has a potty mouth (her words not mine) she puts emotion into her conversation and this sometimes includes swearing, which i found really quite amusing coming from a young woman, in turn this tell me it’s ok for me to use a little bad language. We are soon taking the piss and making daft comments, which of course distracts me from the drama going on in my head and my mood begins to pick up. Despite my moaning, Helen and Jules managed to navigate almost perfectly for the rest of the leg, apart from one tiny error where they were daft enough to listen to me.

When we arrived in PGC i was feeling pretty good and despite my nagging doubts i was keen to get going on the next leg, unfortunately this was without Helen as she had manage to “tweak” her ankle and was forced to drop out at this change over.

Leon

Leg2 - Pont Caer Gors to Llanberis - Distance: 13.1 miles, Ascent: c.6100ft, Time 5hrs (approx)

My favourite leg of the whole round and i have Chris Armour, Andrew McCraken and Johnny Moore supporting.

The first ascent to Crag Wen is a real slog, its pure horrible boggy hell that seems to drag on for ever and true to early form the cloud starts to ascend and the doubts are back again.

On my reccie 3 weeks earlier i had hammered this climb and taken 10 minutes off the schedule, feeling great at the top and looking forward to the climb up to Snowdon.

I feel worried that i have asked Johnny to navigate and Andrew was leading the way following a trace on his GPS. I had met Andrew on a BG support some weeks previously and found him to be great fun and very good in the support/navigation role with some fantastic idea’s about food strategies. Obviously i asked if he would support me on my PBR attempt, now i was thinking “Bloody hell” it’s all going to end in a pile of shit (like leg2 of my first attempt) with navigator and support people arguing about route choice and really doing my head in.

As it turns out i was totally wrong, Johnny was really quite chilled and seemed to have no issues with this, spending most of the leg keeping me reassured and pointing out any route tweaks that you can only get from a good local knowledge, while Chris and Andrew led the way. We arrived in Llanberis a little up on schedule, much to the surprise of the support crew who had only just arrived. Johnny, Andrew and Chris had done a great job on me and i was feeling like this whole Paddy Buckley thing could actually be possible.

On my reccie 3 weeks earlier i had asked Debbie to have a rest and not bother to meet me for this change over. I had taken a half hour rest a bought some food and drink at the local Spar shop. Without road support i had no choice other than push on and do the next leg to Ogwen, although i was deliberately taking my time i was also still feeling good, so doing a third leg was no problem.

Andrew 

Leg3 – Llanberis to Ogwen - Distance: 9.3 miles, Ascent: c.5900ft, Time: 4hrs (ish)

Joining me on this leg were Chris Rainbow and Mark Ruscoe.

This leg has a lot of ascent for only 9.3 miles covered, starting with the first one out of Llanberis up to Elidir Fach, this is a great ascent, steep all the way and very honest, what you see is what you get, no false summits. It was a real help to have done this climb 3 weeks earlier, my confidence was high and i was feeling good.

Chris and Mark talked a lot about football on the first ascent and i learned that Liverpool football team are not as good as Manchester United football team. Liverpool players like to bite their opponents and historically, Liverpool are apparently less successful then Manchester United. I also learned that Manchester United have a new manager who was, apparently, only temporary. Chris and Mark moved on from talking about football to taking the piss out of each other, Mark was kind enough to share a couple of stories about his time in the Army. Although interesting i think sharing them here might be a little inappropriate.

Before i realised how well we were progressing we had arrived at the foot of the Glyders, the ascent up to Glyder Fawr is fairly technical but another one of those climbs that gives just what you see. We made good progress over the Glyders with lots of jumping from rock to rock, it felt good to be out there and i was having a good time. The descent off the Glyders to Tryfan is fairly technical as is the ascent and i messed up a little and lost some time.

The descent off Tryfan is very steep and rocky, in my rush to make back a little time i slipped and bang my head on a rock, luckily it’s a part of my body i don’t use much so no harm done. When these things happen you could be easily distracted, so its important to get straight up and push on. I could see Ogwen in the distance and the half way point of the round, i was feeling great and ready for one of my favorite climbs of the whole round.

On my reccie 3 weeks earlier i had gotten this far and still felt quite good, although way off schedule i didn’t want to miss the ascent up Penny Ole Wen so pushed on and completed the leg at Capel Curig. I had done 4 of the 5 legs in 19.5 hours and had cracking blisters on my feet to prove it.

Keep moving - stops the midges biting

Chaos in the car park at Llanberis

Leg 4 - Ogwen to Capel Curig - Distance: 9.5 miles, Ascent: c.4100ft, Time 3 hrs (perhaps)

With me on this leg were Chris Rainbow, Mark Ruscoe and Leon Hockham.

The ascent up Pen yr Ole Wen is a monster with lots of scrambling and a cracking scramble/climb at the top, although Leon is not familiar with this ascent he took the lead setting a good steady pace and unbelievably finding the scramble/climb near the top. For the rest of this leg there is plenty of good running, i was feeling good and the company was great. The almost constant banter keeps me focused on enjoying the whole experience. For a change i found a cracking line off the final descent arriving right at the bridge. As we ran into Capel Curig i felt quietly confident of getting around even if it took longer than 24 hours.

Leg 5 -Capel to Aberglaslyn - Distance: 19.9 miles, Ascent: c.7900ft, Time 7hrs (maybe)

With me on this leg were Chris Armour and Matt Forbes.

Sat in the car park at Capel Curig i struggled to eat any real food and became aware that i still had a third of the mileage left to do. I was a little down on schedule and starting to wonder if it was a mistake to leave the longest leg until last. This leg is really 2 in 1, the first being from Capel to the quarries and then 5 good ascents to the long run in at the end.

Molly looking after me at Capel Curig

Mark & Chris A getting ready

There was no chance of quitting so i forced down what food i could and stood up ready to go, i got that awful feeling in my chest that says something bad is going to happen but forced myself to think positive and start moving. Chris and Matt were by my side and we set off to whoops and cheers from my support crew.

Moel Siabod is a long, long drag and i was happy to arrive at the top, the following descent is peaceful and we settled in to a gentle jog, so i took this opportunity to have a good moan at Chris and Matt, obviously this made me feel much better.The following hills started to become a blur and i could feel myself sinking into a hole (metaphorically speaking, i didn’t actually sink into a hole) negativity was creeping into my head and for the next hour i moaned for England.

Descending down from Carnedd y Cribau i had decided i would walk the rest of the round and forget about getting round in under 24hrs. However Chris Armour brought out his secret weapon (not the taste of paradise) i noticed a group of people sat by the gate and as we got closer realised it was a group of friends who had been supporting earlier. I was so pleased to see them my spirits began to lift and i started to nurse the idea of a sub 24hrs round again. Cheers Chris

From here to the quarries it gets a bit blurred again but Chris and Matt kept feeding me gels and making sure i took on plenty of liquids. Arriving at the quarry i became aware that i had forgotten to give up, this led to the realisation that, regardless of time i would complete the round, however i was pretty sure i would not get under 24hrs. Completing in less than 24hrs is not essential to get your name on “the list” but there is a certain amount of pride in doing so and i am the sort of person who would consider it un-finished business. Shallow? Perhaps it is.

Up to this point the weather had played along but the forecasted rain began, heading towards Foel Ddu and the nasty little steep ascent to the top, i kept telling myself, you can do this, ignore the rain, just keep moving, its the last leg, run if you can but don’t stop for anything. Moel yr hydd was next followed by Molwyn Bach and Molwyn Mawr. A quick run back down to the quarry and another good line by Matt, left us with one last ascent. At the foot of Cnict i looked up the final ascent and wondered why i had left this one until last, I have done this climb many times and it can be tough, but Matt and Chris pushed on relentlessly and told me to put my head down and keep moving.

Since completing my Bob Graham Round in 2010 i have reccied and trained for this round relentlessly, most of my weekends have been about training for this and after each failed attempt i said i would not consider another, yet i never stopped thinking about it. (Although i never admitted this to anyone, not even myself) The Paddy Buckley Round has dominated my thoughts for the best part of 2 and a half years and finally i was cresting the summit of Cnict.

The end

Chris and Matt had done a good job of convincing me that i could do it and with enough time left to complete the final descent and couple of road miles, it was in the bag.

Running into the carpark at Aberglaslyn i felt a huge rush of emotion, It may have taken 4 attempts but i had done it. 23hrs & 42 minutes.

Thanks go out to every single person who has helped and encouraged me over the last 2 and a half years. These people had faith in me, they believed in me even when i stopped believing in myself. Every one who came out to support on the day, how do i thank you enough?

Debbie’s daughter Caroline gave up yet another weekend to support me through this and my youngest daughter Molly came along this time on her first ever road support. A great big thanks to both of you.

Mostly i have to thank my life partner Debbie who has shown a level of commitment to me and my sport that no man could ask for.