March 29th 2014
The Pennine Way is a National Trail in England, with a small section in Scotland. The trail runs 268 miles fro Edale in the northern Derbyshire Peak District, north through the Yorkshire Dales and the Northumberland National Park and ends at Kirk Yetholm, just inside the Scottish border. The path runs along the Pennine hills, some times described as the "backbone of England". Although not the United Kindoms longest national trail it is one of Britains best known and toughest.
Summer 2013 and Chris Armour and I are out for a training
run somewhere or another when he says he would like to have a go at the Spine
Race. This is a none stop race of The Pennine way, 268 miles over some of the
most beautiful and rugged terrain that England has to offer. In my head I’m
thinking, it looks like a great challenge but no way would I pay 500 pounds to
run one of England’s national trails, especially in January. However he had
planted the seed and unknown to me it was starting to grow in my head and form
an idea.
It was a good challenge, so how could someone on a low
income afford to do it? After much thought I decided to run the route over 7
days, stopping in YHA’s at night and with my partner Debbie offering road
support along the way.
As is usual for me, I invited friends to join me along the
way and share some of the majesty of our country and perhaps listen to me
ramble on constantly about nothing in particular. Somehow I managed to entice
Chris Rainbow into attempting the complete challenge, little would he know what
he was letting himself in for. Ha ha ha ha ha.
After very little planning and most of my friends dropping
out during the weeks leading up to the big day, it finally arrived. Saturday 29th
March 2014, its 8.30am, Chris R and I are stood outside the Plough Public house
in Edale with our partners, Tammy and Debbie.
Oh my god, what am I thinking, 268 miles ahead of me and my
training has consisted of no more than 40 miles a week, all the time nursing a
knee and ankle injury. I am almost overcome with panic and struggle to hold it
together, Chris R looks calm and relaxed as usual and the women look on all
smiles, breath Dave, slowly…. focus on the morning ahead, 1 day at a time. And
then we are off, a gentle jog along the Pennine way.
Chris and i at the start in Edale.
Day 1
Edale to Blackstone edge approx. 35 miles. 8.45am start.
The run starts pleasantly enough but soon lets you know
what’s coming over the next 7 days, Jacobs Ladder and up over Kinder scout, its
relatively early but there are plenty of walkers and even some other runners
out playing on the route. Chris and I exchange pleasantries with them and
peacefully jog along, the panic has begun to ease and my thoughts are now on
the present. We continue over the summit and on to the stone flags which the
route is known for. Crossing the Snake Pass we continue up over Bleaklow
talking about our experience on the High Pak Marathon just a few weeks
previously when we had become lost in the fog on this very route. The path is a
little tricky under foot and my feet are soon soaked and starting to feel sore,
this morning’s choice of running shoe had been Saucony Jazz trail, sturdy and
usually comfortable but unfortunately getting very worn.
The Woodhead pass was our first meeting place with Debbie
for lunch, so the run down from Bleaklow brightened my mood and my thoughts
return to enjoying what we have ahead of us. Debbie greeted us with smiles,
food and hot coffee, heaven really is a place on earth.
Lunch time day 1 - Relaxed and enjoying the day.
The afternoons jog lead us up to Black hill, back onto good
stone paths and steady progress, this section of the PW (Pennine Way) is fairly
well known to me and we soak up the easy trails whilst listening out for the
sounds of the M62 motorway ahead of us. Crossing the foot bridge with the
motorway traffic shooting past below is a strange experience which is difficult
to explain. I almost felt like I was being sucked off the bridge to the traffic
below.
The White House Pub on Blackstone Edge was closed, so we sat
outside and waited for Debbie to arrive. 20 years ago, in a different life, the
A58 over Blackstone Edge served as my very own race track, motorcycles, alcohol
and drugs. How we change.
About 8 hours and day 1 in the bag, night one was spent at
home as the PW passes fairly close to our house, an ice bath and pasta awaited.
Day 2
Blackstone edge to Malham, approx. 42 miles. 8am start.
Day 2 and the start on Blackstone edge.
After day one my feet were very sore so today I chose to
wear my Hoka Stinson trail shoes in the hope that they would save my feet a
little. An odd shoe that reminds me of the platform shoes the middle class
children used to wear in the 1980’s with their high waisted disco pants. Of
course, as a soldiers child we were far too poor for such clothing and I knew
not to even dream of asking.
Stoodley pike is the first place of note on day 2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoodley_Pike
After Stoodley we descend down into Hebden Bridge to face
the first ascent of the day. I’m never at my best in the morning and I was
starting to suffer a little, finding it hard to keep motivated while Chris was
his usual cheery self, to add to my misery I was beginning to realise I didn’t
know this section of the PW as well as I though and it was not very well
signed. On day one I had decided to keep focused on each section and not look
to far ahead, thinking about the coming days is not a good idea when you are
already having a tough time. The run over Wadsworth moor to Withens Height was
a drag but we were getting towards lunch time which is always good.
Unfortunately I had made a mistake in the mileage and instead of the morning
being 16 miles it was 24. Ooops.
Apparently these are shooting huts on Ickornshaw Moor
After more smiles, food and black coffee from Debbie, we
were back on our way, the afternoon was a pleasant change. Instead of open
moorland, stone flags and the feeling of isolation we had rolling hills, green fields
and farms. As usual the afternoon brings a lift in my mood and I start to feel
much stronger, Chris and I jog on through the day chatting away and enjoying
the experience. Before you know it the day is almost at an end and we were
jogging by the river into Malham. Knowing that the YHA does not have a bath I
used the stream and had a soak for 10 minutes to help repair the days damage to
my muscles.
A much needed soak in the stream at Malham
The Hoak's had done well and my feet felt much fresher than
the previous day, although they were taking quite a bit of getting used to,
they felt almost like clown shoes. Day 2 I had 4 Ibuprofen during the day and 2
at night to allow me to sleep.
Malham YHA looks recently upgraded, the staff were friendly and the rooms spotless, highly recommended.
http://www.yha.org.uk/hostel/malham
http://www.yha.org.uk/hostel/malham
Day 3
Malham to Keld, approx. 41 miles. 8.30am start.
Malham YHA, highly recommended.
I had heard good things about Malham cove and was
disappointed to find it was just a rock face, Malham tarn just a ….. tarn. Did
I mention that mornings are not a good time of day for me? We continued on to
fountain fell and Pen-y-ghent, it was nice to get some ascent in our legs and I
could feel my mood improve with the height gain. After Pen-y-gent came the jog
in for lunch at Pen-y-gent café, which was closed……. By now Chris R and I were
getting used to Debbie meeting us for lunch, marking a turning point in the
day. Pork pies and a sandwich, yummy. who needs a blinkin cafe when you have Debbie.
Malham Cove (not one of my pics)
Malham Tarn
Chris on Great Shunner fell
That night we were booked in to http://www.greendragonhardraw.com/
and I can highly recommend finding somewhere else to stay. We stayed in the
bunkhouse and it was poor, the room was far from clean, the showers were filthy
and had paint peeling from the ceilings. Walking around the corridors did
nothing to change my mind, other rooms had obviously not been touched since the
previous occupiers had left, empty beer and wine bottles littered the floor. I
have stayed in worse but can't remember when.
The decision was made to eat out and we had a great meal in
the http://www.whitehartcountryinn.co.uk/ Hawes, friendly staff and a warm
atmosphere. Day 3 was another Hoka day so my feet were in good fettle and I had 4 Ibuprofen during the day and 2 at night to
allow me to sleep.
Day 4
Keld to Dufton, approx 43 miles. 8.30am start.
8 am and we were sat outside the accommodation waiting for
our only support runner of the week, Chris Armour. Due to previous commitments
Chris A was only joining us for the first part of the day, however Chris A is
the sort of person who is a pleasure to run with and today was no different.
Tan Hill Inn - Unfortunately it was closed.
Unfortunately the 2 Chris's had not crossed paths for a good
9 months so had plenty of catching up to do, which left me to dwell in my usual
morning depression. I have to say that this was perhaps the toughest part of
the journey for me, I was not feeling good and was beginning to doubt if I
could do this, 4 days still to go and my legs were dog tired, I had no energy
left. Chris and Chris did their best to involve me in the conversation but I
was having none of it, all I wanted to do was feel sorry for myself and be left
alone to stew in my own misery. As the morning progressed so did my depression
and finding that I had asked Debbie to meet us in Bernard Castle when I should
have said Middleton in Teesdale, did not help. Fortunately Debbie found us easy
enough and it was great to sit for a while and get my head together.
After lunch we jogged on and I felt much better, the
afternoon was looking rosy with some good running ahead. Chris A was only
coming as far as Langdon Beck before meeting his lift so I decide to make the
most and push on a little. Running beside the River Tees was very scenic and
made the journey so much more enjoyable. After Chris A left us, Chris R and I
jogged on at a steady pace along the rocky path to the Cauldrons snout water
fall. The water fall is very dramatic and has so much energy you can't help but
be affected by it.
After a short break we pushed on steadily, climbing Rasp
hill and re-joining the river, which had now turned into Maize beck and
eventually arrived at High Cup Nick. Both Chris and I were starting to tire and
getting a little concerned that we may lose the light. However High Cup Nick is
a truly amazing site and perfect picture opportunity. This only left a gentle
jog down in to Dufton, bringing an end to the hardest day so far, both mentally
and phisically, it also brought a turning point in the journey as we had passed
the half way mark.
On arrival in Dufton I had my 10 minutes in the stream and
sat down to a huge plate of pasta with Debbie and Chris. The longest day was in
the bag.
Soaking in the stream at Dufton
Dufton YHA - Recommended.
Day 4 I had 6 Ibuprofen during the day, 2 at night plus 2 paracetamol
to allow me to sleep. By now my knees and ankle were a little swollen and a
couple of toes were blistered but the Hoka’s were doing a good job and I felt
reasonably good. Amazingly Chris seemed almost unaffected by the miles, so
far he had not complained about the mileage at all.
Day 5
Dufton to Greenhead, approx 37 miles. 8.00am start.
Cross Fell is 893m, which made the first ascent of the day
about 700m, on the way to Cross Fell you pass over, Green Fell, Knock Fell,
Great Dun Fell and Little Dun Fell. To be honest it was a much tougher ascent
than expected and it was very windy across the top, both Chris and I found it
hard work and were happy to finally arrive at Gregs hut (Bothy) for a break
from the wind. There’s not much inside but it would be very welcome if you were
caught out in bad weather as were runners on the Spine Race in 2013.
Gregs Hut - inside
Gregs Hut
From the bothy is mostly downhill on rough stone tracks all the way in to Garrigill where we followed the river to Alston for our well-earned lunch break.
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